The Cumbria Way: Day 3: Great Langdale to Rosthwaite (Borrowdale)

This is the view from the road near the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel looking up Mixenden towards Rossett Ghyll which is the nick in the skyline in the distance. Langdale is a beautiful spot which can be a problem at peak times as everyone turns up to have a go at the Langdale Pikes. The good news is the Cumbria Way doesn't head up Rossett Ghyll (which is heading towards Scafell) and takes the rather more modest Stake Pass.

The Cumbria way is rejoined next to the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel and winds along a fairly good track contouring the valley side towards where the paths for Rossett Ghyll and Stake Pass divide. The branch point is well labelled with some nice lettering and arrows on rocks and you can't miss it. This was the busiest part of my walk, mainly because there were at least 3 Duke of Edinburgh parties in the vicinity. Two of them were near the bottom of Stake Pass when I arrived and making slow progress, mainly due to the tendency to sit down every 5 minutes for a rest. In fairness it looked like they were carrying more than me but I would also guess a few of them were not practiced hill walkers either. I caught a sleeping bag that fell off a lad's pack and was gathering speed downhill until it fortunately arrived at my feet! Some way up, I passed one of the groups and was asked how much further it was to the top. I suggested we were about two thirds of the way there (which I thought was encouraging) and he said "That's so f**king demoralising!" which made me laugh a lot.

And like most ascents it comes to an end soon enough and you can look back at your work, in this case the view back into Great Langdale from where we had come.


At the top of the pass there's a wide flat saddle which you walk across to find the descent into Langstrathdale. There was a school party and a 3rd DofE party here as well as two men with a theodolite on a grassy knoll. All i'm saying is it isn't always secluded up there!

So this is the view down into Langstrathdale. Lang is Norse for "long" and it is well named. Not as full of grand features as Langdale but also no road, buildings or "civilisation" to spoil the view.











There's not much to say about the way down... except keep going!

The path keeps variable and amiable company with the Stake Beck as it descends.

 Eventually the Stake Beck is crossed by a foot bridge and joins Langstrath Beck. 

The higher fells up to the left as you descend the valley are Rosthwaite Fell, Stonethwaite Fell and Glaramara. I don't know which are in this picture!

Langstrath Beck gradually matures along the valley and near the confluence with Greenup Gill (which is where the Coast to Coast path heads off towards Grasmere) it becomes quite wide with beautiful green slate in the river bed and some pretty tree lined glades.

 As Greenup Gill joins the river changes again to Stonethwaite Beck which is a clue that civilisation (or at least a small hamlet) is around the corner. The path stays on the East (right) side of the river although there's a perfectly good alternative on the other side which would be sensible if you were heading to the Stonethwaite Farm campsite, or even the Langstrath Hotel. I stayed on the Cumbria way and crossed the river by a farm bridge and doubled back to the Langstrath .

I had tried to book to stay here but it was full. The notices on the blackboard on the wall told me the bar was open and it was a welcome pint.

The plaque beneath says "In loving memory of a sunny day in Borrowdale".

Rain or shine, Borrowdale is beautiful and tends to attract less people than Langdale. For serious walkers it's within reach of Scafell and Great Gable and my favourite summit of Dalehead. There's plenty of industrial history too, mainly mining for precious metals (even gold), and of course the Honister slate quarry.

After a rest I recrossed the river and continued along the Cumbria way to Rosthwaite about a mile away where I stayed at the Scafell Hotel and ate in the Riverside Bar which i recommend.

And maybe it was good luck because it rained really heavily most of the night and I don't envy the campers as i soaked in the bath!